Surfing in Hossegor

Hossegor, France. You only have to say those two simple words to conjure images of heavy beachbreak waves, heaving barrels unloading on an unsuspecting sandbank, and a fierce contingent of locals fighting for a share of them. No other surf region in the world is more renowned for powerful beachbreaks. Sounds like longboard hell, right?

Wrong, in fact. This corner of south-western France, nestled in the Bay of Biscay just an hour from the Spanish border, is home to some of the most perfect peeling waves in Europe, tailor-made for nose riding, hanging five or just plain cruising down the line.

Sure, when the Atlantic is alive with low pressure, especially in winter (from December to February), Hossegor and the surrounding beaches of Capbreton and Seignosse are pounded by plenty of surf more suited to shortboards.

But during spring, summer and autumn the stretch of perpetually shifting quality sandbars can often be a mal-rider’s Mecca. Tide changes during the day affect the surf radically, as some banks turn on and others turn off, sometimes within an hour or two

The anomaly of geography

It’s not pure dumb luck that makes Hossegor’s beachbreaks so good. It all comes down to geography.

Swells are funneled towards the coast by a deep water canyon – called the ‘Gouf’ – that juts into the continental shelf off the coast of Hossegor. It means the Atlantic swells retain their intensity and raw power, manifesting as powerful beachbreak waves when they reach the coast.

The second geographical factor in Hossegor’s favour is the actual shape of its sandbars. Towering dunes (in some cases painstaking recreated by local councils after they were damaged by development) replenish the sand and swirling currents that refract off the ‘Gouf’ groom the banks into formations ideal for peeling waves.

On the downside, even Hossegor’s often-perfect beachbreaks can close out when the swell is over three metres, and there is little shelter when the wind swings onshore. But happily these days are few and far between, particularly if you time your wave raid with the seasons. June to September is summer – complete with glorious weather and the cliché of stunning French women sunbathing on the beach – but the swell can often be small for weeks on end and crowds really do reach plague proportions.

On either side of the summer peak period, the crowds die down a little and the surf is often ideal, particularly for longboards. The water is cooler but you’ll still only need a 3/2 wetsuit to stay toasty.

Flat day fun

Don’t despair if the surf drops. Hike or borrow a mountain bike from the Natural Surf Lodge and cruise the forest paths around Hossegor.

A stone’s throw from the lodge is a picturesque lake called the etang noir, where you can wet a line, take a freshwater dip or paddle a kayak.

Mushroom foraging is also popular in the area, as is duck shooting – you’ll hear the shots of local hunters shatter the still dawn air most mornings.

Just remember to be up for the early morning surf check – chances are there’ll be a rifling little beachbreak perfect for getting toes on the nose.

Staying at Natural Surf Lodge

The couple has spent six years creating the laid-back eco retreat, complete with cosy bungalows, a tree house, hammocks for lazing away the afternoon, lush green lawns and a steam room and hydro-massage pool to wind down after a session in the surf.

There’s also a homely common room with surf shots on the walls, soft couches for watching surf movies, and a board rack that’s home to dozens of wave riding craft – longboards, shortboards, twin fins, planks, beautiful single fins and beaten-up old beasts of boards – all available for guests to use.

Come with your kids and they won’t be bored either. As well as endless beaches and surrounding forests to explore, the lodge has a tree house, pool and ping pong tables, a trampoline and a home-made skateboard bowl.

The days kick off with a breakfast of fresh baguettes and coffee. Later, cook your own dinner in the communal kitchen or order a scrumptious three-course feed for a tenner from Restaurant Le Roseaux just down the road.

Surfers can simply stay in the bungalows and use Natural Surf Lodge as a base camp, or opt for a package that includes board and equipment hire and daily surf lessons. There are also other extras like yoga workshops, French language classes or cookery sessions focused on local cuisine.

While most guests are beginners keen to expand on their surfing abilities, experienced surfers are also well catered for. Stephan is perpetually keen for the morning dawn patrol wherever the waves are best, and he’s always on the pulse if the wind swings offshore or the waves pick up. "Is offshore – let’s go," he says abruptly one afternoon, sticking his head into the common room when I’m happily sipping a cuppa and warming up after a morning session in the waves.

A stay of a week seems like much longer, as the days become a blur of fresh crusty breakfast baguettes, morning surfing lessons, lunchtime siestas, afternoon surfs and outdoor barbecues with like-minded souls.

www.naturalsurflodge.com

Exploring further afield

The Hossegor region is surprisingly undeveloped and rural considering it is Europe’s surfing nexus. The town itself is worth a wander, with a vibrant café and restaurant strip and a piazza on the beach perfect for sipping a coffee or cold pint while watching the waves.

If you fancy nightlife, motor down to Biarritz for a night of bar-hopping, casinos and fancy French restaurants. Or hop over the border to Spain and the buzzing town of San Sebastian.

Just remember to be up for the early morning surf check – chances are there’ll be a rifling little beachbreak perfect for getting toes on the nose.