Bali might be one of Indonesia’s smaller islands but exploring its reefs, bays, beaches and points for surf potential could be the work of years. Lucky then that many of the quality breaks are clustered, domino-style, along the Bukit, which magnetises Indian Ocean swell and is always offshore in reliable winter trade winds.

From Nyang Nyang and Greenball to reliable Uluwatu, barrelling Padang Padang, Impossibles, Bingin, Dreamland and Balangan, the breaks collectively offer everything from plank-walking potential to hollow tubes and carving walls.

Hotels and villas dot the cliffs the length of the Bukit and crowds in the water are a factor. But the waves – best in the dry season from May to August – work on a wide variety of swell, wind and tide combinations, making it possible to still score uncrowded Bali bliss.

Uluwatu, first surfed in footage captured by Alby Falzon’s memorable Morning of the Earth, is home to one of the island’s most important temples as well as one of Bali’s most memorable and mystical waves. Paddle out through the cave at the bottom of the ravine and into high tide walls at The Peak or rifling low-tide peelers at Racetrack, the end section of the break.

Shortboarders rule the roost here and crowds are ever-present, but tackling ‘Ulus’ is a must for any surfer bound for Bali. It’s longboard-friendly on a high tide and small swell, while fishes and mid-sized egg shapes work well on lower tides.

Longbreak continues the wave account with a surf stop at Balangan just an hour after stepping foot off the plane. The drive meanders through a resort and golf course labelled ‘New Kuta Beach’, but the modern world is left behind at the car park as a dirt track heads through the steamy jungle and across a rickety bridge down to the breakers.

The racy left works well on a small to moderate swell at low tide, and has the added benefit of spinning off along a flat and forgiving kelpy coral ledge. Breaking off a scenic headland wreathed in jungle, it unwinds in front of warungs strung haphazardly along the water’s edge. Crowds here are mellow and minimal.

The east coast, on the other side of the island from the Bukit, is also rich in quality surf breaks but this stretch must be ridden early morning before the trade winds funnel in.

Longbreak used the services of Tropic Surf guide and instructor Jack Chisholm, whose intimate knowledge of the island’s breaks delivered quality, uncrowded waves at locations even seasoned Indo veterans would find surprising.

Contact:
www.tropicsurf.net/

Packing a proper quiver for Bali can be tricky, especially with increasing excess luggage limitations. Surfers wary of lugging longboards on long haul flights should instead log onto web-based surfboard rental outfit www.526foot.com.

Run by Australian expat Peter Cox, it’s the ultimate way to ensure a quiver capable of tackling any conditions. Customers can hire a board and swap their rental from day to day – from a retro fish to a 7’2’’ gun or a nose-rider, depending on conditions. The online store can also organise surfing hardware with everything from reef boots to leg ropes, fins, wax and sunscreen – delivered to your hotel room.

Contact
www.526foot.com.

Many surfers who ventured to Bali in their younger years paid their dues in budget Kuta hotel rooms, where a ceiling fan is a luxury and a gourmet breakfast is a simple – though satisfying – Bali coffee and banana jaffle.

Karma Kandara, on the other hand, truly is a pole apart from the budget experience. Choose from 33 spacious villas, each finished in polished marble and rainforest timber, beautifully appointed and decorated, with private decks, plunge pools, sun beds and an outdoor gazebo.

The real gem here is the cable tram which drops guests several hundred metres down to the private beach and swimming lagoon at the foot of the cliff below.

Or, for those who prefer the view, the cliff-top di Mare restaurant overlooks a horizon pool with 180-degree ocean views. Below, breakers pound the reef and fishermen haul their nets.

Contact:
www.karmaresorts.com

As good as the resort restaurant is, the real culinary sensation has to be its Balinese cooking school experience – simply not to be missed.

It starts with an early-morning shopping trip to Jimbaran Bay’s famous seafood and vegetable market. Wander the endless rows of giant yellow-fin tuna, fresh hauls of pink and gold band snapper, piles of barracuda, squid, prawns, oysters and crab.

Then head over the road to choose bunches of water spinach, cress, candlenuts, chillies, root ginger, lemongrass and galangal. Our chef, Suadra, selects the freshest produce for the cooking class.

Back at the villa, it’s time for hands-on cooking with the help of Suadra and his assistants. Finally, the cooking complete, a feast is laid out for lunch: Balinese beef rendang, tiger prawn curry, sambal snapper wrapped in banana leaf, bumbu squid, chicken satay sticks in freshly ground peanut sauce, gado gado and nasi goreng.

It is a feast of epic proportions and one of the finest local meals the Longbreak team have experienced.