Beyond the surf and pristine tropical setting, the proud Mentawaian culture makes a journey here an unforgettable experience. Known for having one of the world’s most fascinating and preserved indigenous cultures, they live a self-sufficient existence completely in tune with their jungle environment. Animistic beliefs, intricate tattoos and rich cultural heritage define life in the islands.

For now the modern world has little relevance to this remote part of the world, but traditions are slowly eroding. It may be that the Mentawai way of life may soon be a thing of the past, but it remains a fascinating and unique aspect of a trip to this archipelago.

Surfing Burgerworld
Dreaming of a pointbreak? Love the waves at Noosa but would rather pass on the crowds? Welcome to Burgerworld – the longest wave in the islands and definitely one of the most ‘ripable’. It’s the most scenic break in the region, with righthanders reeling down the side of a jungle covered island. The backdrop is like something out of a studio.

The waves race along a rocky point, section after glorious section, throwing up beautifully long walls and the odd barrel. It’s an easy wave, but also a speed demons delight.

And then name? Well, when the swell’s too big, the waves tend to push wide and fatten out. But time it during a small swell – early, late or off season are the best times - and you’ll be in heaven.

Surfing Playgrounds
A 20 minute boat ride away is the Playgrounds area - so named because there’s a half dozen waves within a few hundred metres of each other. Out the back, Rifles and Nokandui rear up menacingly, but further inside are 4 Bobs (a very fun right), Candies (a shifty peaky left) and Floating House Left (a shallow but mellow and long logging wave).

Pristine reef, clear water and swarms of tropical fish make surfing here a memorable experience. For much of our surfs we were marveling at the aquarium-like conditions as much as we were stoked on the pumping waves.

Crowds here were minimal – with a bunch of spots to choose from, it wasn’t hard to pick an empty wave to have to ourselves.

Surfing Beng Bengs
For our first surf of the trip, the call is made to head to Beng Bengs – a fun lefthander two minutes boat ride from the resort. Boards are unpacked, suncreen slapped on and we’re off. Tucked into a large bay, Beng Bengs breaks along a triangle of reef just offshore from a beautiful long white sandy beach. Palm trees sway in the breeze and a crystal clear lagoon lines the sand. Conjure an image of tropical paradise and you’re getting close.

After our first surf we were hooked – the wave is as addictive as its namesake chocolate bar, and it became a spot we were always keen to come back to. Crisp lefts stand up, peak in exactly the same spot and funnel along the reef. It’s a wavepark that never failed to deliver.
Even better, the boys at Pitstops had the conditions so wired that we usually surfed here by ourselves.

Surfing Pitstop
Routinely described as one of the funniest waves in the world, your new home break is literally right in front of the resort. Wake up and snag a quick dozen waves before breakfast, surf through the hot lunchtime session and watch another spectacular sunset from the line-up.
Exploring the many nearby waves is a must, but there’s something very satisfying about surfing a quality wave right in front of your accommodation. Kick out of a good wave and listen to the hoots from the garden above. Hop out of the water and you can be back at the resort in under a minute, relaxing on the outdoor day beds with a cool drink in hand.

A wedgey take-off on the reef slingshots you into a wall that rattles along a sandbank. Sandbank? Yep – after gorging yourself on the reef breaks in the area, its great to have a bash out the front and step off onto the sand.

And when the waves are small it’s one of the most picturesque beaches in the area. With clear water, white sand and overhanging trees providing plenty of shade, it’s a perfect hangout for families and partners.

Surfing Nipussi
Just around the back of the island from Pitstops, Nipussi became one of our go-to waves. When the swell’s small it always had waves, and when it got bigger it was a more challenging, but still within our limits spot. A peaky right that breaks into a small bay, it took on different characteristics with each surf, depending on the swell direction and tide. It’s sometimes described in similar terms to Bells - it’s definitely a quality wave.

Deep water rights stand up out the back and wall up along a point into a small bay. The reef is similar to many of those in Australia – it’s a rocky shelf rather than coral. Palm trees line the beach and huge schools of parrot fish cruise below your feet. There’s plenty of power and potential for hold-downs, but it’s not a wave known for serious consequences.

It can hold some serious size too… something to build up to during your trip and get stuck into.

Secret Spots

With so many spots in the area, variety is what makes the Mentawais such a unique surfing experience. On top of some of our favourite waves we’ve described, there are also a quiet half dozen semi-secret spots. It’s great to know that even today, there’s still new waves being discovered.

The Pitstops boys keep them very hush-hush, and we’ll respectfully not mention anything more. If the conditions are right you’ll get to surf them.

All we’ll say is this – they all rival the better known waves. Plus, you’re almost guaranteed to surf them by yourself. Enough said.

Food For Sport

Any trip to Indonesia is a culinary journey and our meals rivaled the surf we scored. You might be on a hardcore surf trip, but you’ll be so well fed that you won’t leave here any lighter.

Western favourites feature on the menu, but the emphasis is on Indonesian specialty dishes. The menu changes daily and it’s hard to pick a standout dish. Like the surf, the cuisine is varied.
Seafood features heavily – grilled fish basted in spicy coconut paste, chilli mud crabs, aromatic coconut curries and king prawns were highlights. And if you’ve landed a fish on the way back from the surf, get ready to enjoy a platter of the world’s fresh sashimi.

The beef rendang here is fantastic. You’ll have eaten this rich curried dish before, but nothing as delicious as this. Rendang is famous throughout Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore, but parochial locals claim this dish originated in West Sumatra. After a mouthful of the local version we were converts.