longbreak gets to experience a unique 21st century boutique resort on an island that time has passed by. Unlike many resorts that cocoon us in an exclusive world far removed from cultural environs, at award winning Nihiwatu on the island of Sumba owneroperators Claude and Petra Graves believe that providing superior facilities and services to their guests is only part of their job.

ancient rituals lived surfing myth dispelled the power of vision

At a most civilised hour a group of 30 or so westerners gather in Bali’s regional air terminal for the flight to Sumba. Amongst them the Longbreak crew is wondering how many know that the anticipated luxury of Nihiwatu is a facade behind which lies Sumba’s history and culture and a commitment by Petra and Claude Graves to benefit the local population.

We hear a soft American-accented voice, familiar to Longbreak from many phone calls. Suddenly a face is put to Claude Graves owner-operator of Nihiwatu resort. Dressed in floral shirt, shorts and sandals, with laptop under one arm and surfboard under the other, he towers above the crowd. Gathering up his new flock of guests he guides us to the specially chartered 50-seat ATR-300 for the short flight to Sumba. The reconfigured interior of the aircraft looks like a boardmaker’s warehouse; boards outnumber people and seats have been sacrificed for an expanse of space.

As we climb skywards and head east over Nusa Lembongan the high wings of the ATR-300 allow clear views of the wellknown shipwreck and playgrounds breaks working well on a swell from the south; a swell pattern we hope will continue its journey towards Nihiwatu on the southwestern coast of Sumba.

Arrival at Sumba and a deserted and crumbling control tower at the modest Tambolaka airport is the first indication of the reality behind the Nihiwatu facade. On the car journey to Nihiwatu there is none of the intense agriculture of sculpted terraces that we associate with Bali and no constant roadside parade of humanity as in Java; just the grass covered undulations of hills denuded of forest. Small, rural villages are configured around central open areas, with roofs thrusting skyward in central spires that facilitate the movement of gods and ancestral spirits.

Covering 11,150 square kilometres and situated 480 kilometres southeast of Bali, Sumba is part of the 2,000 kilometre long Indonesian archipelago, but its relatively short distance from Bali is deceptive as it could be a world away both environmentally and culturally. The island is subject to long dry seasons with brief monsoon rains, and subsistence of the sparse population of approximately 450,000 is heavily reliant on one annual growing season of mainly dry land crops such as maize and tapioca.

One of the economically poorest islands in the Indonesian archipelago, Sumba is home to one or the world’s few remaining animist cultures and is culturally rich, with a strong adherence to ancient traditions. Relatively little is known of the history of this island, except that it once supported vast swathes of indigenous sandalwood trees and a population of fierce warriors of differing tribes.

Although the Dutch government took control of the islands of Indonesia in 1799, the colonial administrators were unable to establish an administrative post on Sumba until 1933 when they finally deemed it safe to replace its only garrison with a police force. Some change came to Sumba following Indonesian independence in 1945, with the Government greatly improving air access and upgrading the island’s road network, but little has changed in the more isolated reaches of the island.

The island of Sumba, and Nihiwatu in particular, is widely acknowledged for producing a quality wave; one that a reliable source had advised Longbreak was ‘no gentleman wave’. The surf at Sumba is renowned for its consistency. If the surf is flat here you can be sure it is flat just about everywhere else in the archipelago. Nihiwatu faces southwest to the Indian Ocean and is ideally suited for picking up swell that arrives from thousands of miles away.

On arrival at the hilltop entrance to Nihiwatu and with several hours of daylight remaining, Longbreak viewed the break with cautious anticipation. A small swell was running, producing a very acceptable wave, and there was a slightly cross-shore breeze just above the category of ‘zephyr’. With plentiful and willing Nihiwatu staff on hand to transport baggage to villas, it was only minutes before 15 riders were in the water; a number rarely if ever seen at Nihiwatu.

Usually there is accommodation at Nihiwatu for eight to ten surfers but this was a special occasion. Quiksilver's general manager for Northern Europe, Jeff Bradburn, was celebrating a milestone anniversary with friends and their partners from all corners of the world and had booked the entire resort. Hence, the rush to the water by an instant crowd keen to build bragging rights for the first evening drinks session! Initial activity was fast and furious; no one knew the break and egos jockeyed for the correct take-off positions.

After the ‘grand final pre-bounce jostling’ had subsided and all main players had touched the ball, Longbreak managed to sneak its first Sumba wave; a shoulder high swell approaches, a cursory scan to check inside the Quiksilver activity - none visible - clear to roll - three maybe four stokes - the board is lifted by the swell and it's time to go. Flying left, face to the wall of water just over head-high this wave produced instant gratification.

At a glance it was readable and predicable. Just tuck up in the slot and make the section to the outer wall, fade back down the face, forehand it back into a new tight section and off again at maximum velocity. Repeat this several times and then flick out into the deep channel for the 400-500 metre white water free paddle back to the take-off zone. Despite the larger than usual flotilla, a small swell and slight cross-breeze had everyone appeased and de-stressed by the end of the session; a session with only a hand-full of misdemeanours committed and those generously attributed to overenthusiasm.

However, the misdemeanours of subsequent days were heartily tried, convicted and sentenced in the sunset bar each evening - producing ample free rounds of drinks.* The frenzied opening session by the full complement of riders was never again experienced. On subsequent days sorties of two to four ambled down from their villas at various times throughout the day to select from their quiver of boards and paddle the 100 metres to the edge of the reef to catch the gentle current and be carried out to the take-off zone.

Each day of Longbreak’s five-day visit produced waves ranging from waist-to head-and-a-half high that were suitable for long and short boards. The daily window of surfing opportunity was open for much longer than at many other well regarded breaks because at the size Longbreak experienced the break was not affected greatly by tide or current.

The result was that guests could easily select their session times to accommodate their own personal schedule of meals, massages, spa treatments, diving instructions walks and snoozes etcetera, etcetera. The wave is quality at all sizes and the setting is second to none. From the take-off zone you face the top of a wide sweep of bay with Nihiwatu nestled amongst tropical vegetation on the steep lush hillsides.

The water is crystal clear and the stony reef bottom is easily seen, with the realisation that surfing here can be with barefoot abandon. Nihiwatu does have several other breaks available to guests and these can be accessed by the resort's boat, but they are not exclusive and surfers from charter boats can sometimes be encountered. If you are seeking large double overhead surf the most reliable formula is the months of May through October on the full and new moons.

Between those times perfect waves in the three- to six-feet range are pretty much the norm. Claude and Petra Graves searched the islands of the Philippines and Indonesia for a location on which to build their dream. Having found Sumba they spent two years living on the beach in a simple hut and immersed themselves in the local culture. It took a further nine years to consolidate over 383 individual titles into a single 483-acre property with 2.5 km of beachfront, and to construct a resort.

Then several years ago earthquakes and landslides devastated the first resort. There followed extensive land stabilising engineering works and a rebuilding program that brought the resort to what it is today. Built by skilled local craftsmen in traditional Sumban style, but with the most up-to-date of facilities, accommodation at the resort is in separate villas scattered throughout the lush hillside site.

Each villa is the essence of tasteful, understated luxury and has unrestricted views to the break and a palm fringed white beach beyond. Flagstone pathways meander from the villas through lovingly tended tropical gardens and lead to the Nihiwatu central facilities, the focus of which is the bar and dining area. In this thatch-roofed open-sided structure Sumba-style wooden furniture stands on raked sand floors juxtaposed with the white of linen napkins and glint of polished tableware.

Dining is high-end resort standard with spectacular presentation and designed to satisfy gourmand tendencies. With commanding views of the entire bay and surf break, this is the perfect place to take in the magic of a tropical sunset. Although Nihiwatu does not cater exclusively for surfers it more than caters to their needs and definitely understands one of the most important - food.

For the surfer requiring extra sustenance, tasty morsels are available throughout the day for the refuelling of more lengthy sessions in the water. And for all it offers the surfer, Nihiwatu is the perfect place for the non-surfing partner, because it boasts what few other great surf locations can - the total resort package. Bodies and souls can be rejuvenated via massages and treatments in hilltop jungle spas and private and group yoga is conducted under a majestic Sumbanese structure or around the hillside pool retreat.

The more calorie burning activities include one of Sumba’s great traditions - horseriding. With Nihiwatu’s more than 2km of beachfront this is a great spot to experience genuine horsepower.

The waters around the resort abound with sea life and all diving levels are catered for. One of the best dives for beginners is just 100 metres off Nihiwatu’s beach and more experienced divers can take advantage of the awe-inspiring heart-pounding dives passively facilitated by several undersea mountains. Qualified instructors and guides are on permanent staff at Nihiwatu, so arriving without a dive ticket is no barrier to experiencing underwater spectacles.

Exploring the surrounding area is a great way for couples to spend time together. A day trip can be taken to the pristine and unique Konda Maloba, a remote bay south of Nihiwatu. Located in Indonesia’s newest national park, Konda Maloba offers a myriad of wildlife and a variety of beaches to explore along with hiking, swimming, fishing and snorkelling; or just hang out on the powdery white sand of the beach knowing that you are of a privileged few to experience this.

A highlight of Longbreak’s stay at Nihiwatu was the invitation to visit local villages; an enriching experience never to be forgotten. The villagers live in a manner probably not changed for thousands of years with ancient rituals that are part of their everyday lives. Nothing is contrived for tourist consumption. These village visits are very much integral to the Nihiwatu experience and an insight into the purpose of the Sumba Foundation.

Getting There

Sumba is not really en-route to anywhere so is accessed via transit ports. The most efficient route is through Bali with a regional flight to Tambolaka on Sumba. If the numbers are sufficient, in many cases Nihiwatu will arrange the regional flight and the overland transfer from Tambolaka to Nihiwatu is included in the resort’s accommodation package. An overnight transit in Bali is usually a requirement and if travelling in groups a Karma Resort Villa can supply a luxurious beginning. (See Longbreak issue 6)

For flights from Australia to Bali, Garuda Indonesia has comprehensive scheduling and competitive prices.