Jordan Marchant gets into some of the most perfect A-frames on the planet

Enjoying a plate of fresh fruit-salad and an Indonesian style mud coffee, my eyes focus, albeit a little foggily, on ‘The Peak’ as a raucous hoot cuts the early morning silence. Two surfers split another perfect peak, both disappearing behind the curtain, before emerging unscathed from another magic cavern. Welcome to Lakey’s home to one of the finest A-frame waves on the planet; the hardest decision here is deciding whether to go left or right.

Located east of Bali between Lombok and Flores in the province known as the Lesser Sundra Islands, Lakey Peak is the jewel in the crown of Sumbawa’s southeast surfing mecca. Centred around the village of Hu’u, the area features some of Indonesia’s finest breaks all within a three kilometre strip of beach. Sumbawa due to its close proximity to Bali, is increasingly becoming popular with surfers, bodyboarders, and more recently with kiteboarders.

Most of Sumbawa’s 1.5 million people reside in the focal points of Bima (in the east) and Sumbawa Besar (west), which are located in what were once two unique kingdoms, each with a different dialect spoken which were unintelligible to one another.

The majority of Sumbawa’s people embrace Islam. Even with limited possessions, the villagers around Lakey’s share some of the brightest smiles you’re likely to meet.

The island has historically held no attraction for mainstream tourists, being just that far off the beaten track, to dissuade all but the adventurous (and of course the ubiquitous surf explorer).

Given the south facing surf-coast exposed to relentless Indian Ocean winter lines, the waves on Sumbawa were never going to go undiscovered for long. As a result, surf driven tourism is on the increase. The happy consequence is ever improving levels of accommodation which are a far cry from the rudimentary surf camps of 15-20 years ago.

It must be said, I was more than a little nervous touching down at Bima airport - it wasn’t the rickety (flying) sardine-box that had been bothering me either - but more the seven metre storm-swell pounding Western Australia, which would be shortly sending a swell of monstrous proportions straight towards Lakey’s during the Longbreak crew’s visit.

Located about 200 metres directly in front of our comfortably appointed accommodation the Aman Gati Hotel, lies the area’s best known wave - The Peak, an A-frame reef-break that produces quality lefts and rights that on their day they can produce world class barrels.

The left is the longer wave; breaking for around 70m and on a big swell produces an intimidating take off and a thundering barrel only suitable for highly experienced short-board riders.

The right is a lot shorter, but on a bigger swell offers picture-perfect backdoor barrel rides. When the swell is smaller, the wave suits all board lengths, surfing styles and levels of competence.

Don’t let the easy option fool you. There are lots of other great waves in the area that all have their special moments - Periscopes is one such celebrated wave. Although the location of this wave makes it a near impossible mission for the longboarder - It’s either a 40 min each-way walk on soft sand, often in energy sapping heat, or a 20 minute motorbike ride which will be painfully slow as you tightly clutch onto your board, making sure you aren’t ripped off the bike. This wave is no myth, and if all the elements come together you could be in for a 100 metres of pure barrelling joy. Theft in the area is a real problem, surfers are advised to only bring a water bottle and sunscreen, when surfing.

For the second day in a row, I awake from a deep sleep in the pre-dawn darkness to a boisterous sounding ocean laying only a 100 metres from my room. My caffeine jolt revives me as the sun simultaneously peaks its head over the hills. This has got to be the massive swell we have been predicting, surely, I think. How wrong I am. The swell is still very friendly at three-to-four feet and once again we enjoy another early morning surf on The Peak.

A usual 20-plus riders in the line-up sounds like an awful lot. But with surfers splitting the A-frames on every wave, it’s really only ten surfers on the right and ten on the left. Playing the patience game is the key and as Longbreak found, even with such a crowd it’s still possible to score plenty of memorable rides.

When an abrupt onshore wind rips through the line-up, an early lunch is called and the entire water crew beat a hasty retreat back to land. After refuelling over a hearty meal of spaghetti bolognese, the afternoon power-nap beckons hopefully in preparation for another afternoon session. It’s a hard life!

Miraculously, when I wake a few hours later the ocean has given itself a miracle makeover and is being fanned by a light offshore. The swell also seems to have jacked considerably. The locals suggest checking out a left, situated a leisurely 300 metres walk from Aman Gati Hotel, which could be starting to show its true colours with the new rise in swell.

We walk along a coarse white, shell-littered sandy beach off to the right of the peak until the reef begins its long sweep down into the adjourning bay. This is Nungas - a long wrapping left point style wave that bowls along the reef edge and into the bay.

We delicately tip-toe across the coral reef, 9 foot Mctavish TufLite under the arm, making sure not to step on one of the urchin landmines that litter the submerged fringes of the reef. Unlike other parts of Indonesia, this reef is a lot more forgiving. It’s the urchins that will bring you pain and booties are advised.

The paddle out at Nungas is like a vortex, enticing you to paddled further and further out around the reef edge chasing the perfect looking wave, forcing you to dig in the arms and power on until you’re sitting way out the back in the dark depths of a lonely ocean. What initially was a friendly head-high wave down on the reef’s end section is now double head high and seeming to get bigger with each set.

Nungas has many moods and each wave is different to the last. As the afternoon wears on, the swell continues to build and it’s just the two of us having the time of our lives in the 200 metre plus long walls. The smaller waves tend to break in sections but the bigger set waves link up into one long wave which runs for the length of the reef.

Talk about fun. We enjoy a number of epic rides, ensuring the afternoon peace and quite is shattered by our piercing hoots. It’s the perfect wave for the longboard and the shape of the coastline means that each wave is back-dropped by the afternoon sun and stunning mountains.

As the sun slowly disappears over the mountains, the horizon lights up into a typically breathtaking, fiery, pink sunset. We decide to call it a day. As we recall our best rides on the walk back to the resort, prayers can be heard emanating from the local mosque - this is the real Sumbawan experience.

That night at the dinner table it’s all smiles and plenty of surf babble, as we enjoy a scrumptious meal of freshly grilled tuna with garlic vegetables, washed down with an icy-cold Bintang. The winter storms back in Australia couldn’t be any further from our thoughts. What more could you ask for, delicious food, good company, warm water and pumping waves.

Over the course of our stay, the hotel’s three-storey A-framed restaurant becomes our designated hangout zone. Situated directly in front of The Peak, it provides perfect views from its two highest levels. It is also a great place to enjoy a conversation, or a movie with travelling surfers from all over globe. There’s never a dull moment at the Aman Gati Hotel restaurant

The swell already has some real size, but could it get any bigger?

You bet it can!

As the new dawn breaks we watch as massive sets explode at the peak before purging white sheets of spray into the channel. This must be the same swell that was smashing WA, and it’s solid all right. It’s safe to say the longboard won’t be making it out to the tower with us today.

Aman Gati Hotel’s owner/manager Gede is a forward-thinking Balinese-born businessman. He is not only proactive in providing the best facilities and service possible to his guests but looking after both the locals and tourists best interests, whilst still ensuring the environment is maintained.

Having grown up hustling on the streets of Kuta, surviving by selling wood carvings, he understands what it’s like for the youngsters trying to make a living at Lakey’s. Gede has kindly donated money for the building of the new two-storey vantage tower for spectators and he has hospitality training programs in place at the resort to ensure the area’s youth partake in meaningful employment and gain skills for the future.

Malaria has always been a concern for travelling surfers at Lakey’s, generally speaking in the southern hemisphere’s winter months it isn’t too bad but the wet-season is a different story altogether. Gede sprays the surrounding areas of the resort, which has helped considerably, but it is advised that surfers cover up and use repellent at night to avoid any contact with mosquitoes.

Unfortunately for travellers, petty corruption can be experienced at Bima Airport. Be aware at all times and look after your own luggage as some of the locals have been know to get heavy handed (and light fingered!). We at Longbreak were lucky as we had already paid and arranged for our transfer to the Aman Gati resort, meaning we got away quickly and escaped any dramas. A Dutch traveller wasn’t so lucky. He was asked to produce his passport, which he hadn’t brought thinking it wasn’t needed for an internal flight. He was taken into a back room and made to pay ‘the prescribed amount’ of rupiah before he was allowed out of the airport. It pays to be wary!!

Some of the characters at Lakey’s are nearly as famous as the waves themselves. Take a mixture of cheeky local grommets, talented ex-pat surfers, and token tourists like us and you have the ingredients for pure entertainment on land but a potential boiling pot in the water. Always remember to pay your dues and respect the locals both in and out of the water.

If variety is the spice of life, it’s no wonder that the regulars keep coming back to Lakey’s. The area gets consistent swells, has a perfect left and right out the front (The Peak), another left across the channel (Pipe), a long forgiving left a short walk away (Nungas), an epic right a small bike ride away (Periscopes) and some other lesser know spots that are great on small swells (Nunga Dores and Cobblestones). There are waves to cater for every surfer here, sure it gets crowded in peak season, but if you keep an eye on the wind or don’t mind surfing in a light onshore often it’s surprisingly uncrowded. The peak swell period for Lakey’s is from April to September, however the October to March off-season can offer perfect glassy conditions with light winds, though the swells are a lot less consistent during this period.

Longbreak’s trip brought so many memorable moments that towards the end of out time we would barely bat an eyelid even though surfers were enjoying some of the most perfect waves you’re ever likely to see. The local people are inquisitive and friendly in nature and their gleaming smiles showcase their happiness and charm.

Lakey’s natural beauty is also undeniable, from the soaring mountainous backdrops to the oily afternoon fireball sunsets, Lakey’s really has it all.

But there’s one staple that keeps people coming back year in year out. The waves, it’s all about surfing at Lakey Peak.

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